Area
|
|
Repair/Upgrade |
|
Comment
|
|
Engine Access |
|
Have
notched out a
section of the Starboard Quarter Berth to all better access to
rear of engine and shaft Packing. Notched section was cut
at angles that allows the 'notch' to be dropped back
in, or removed
as needed.
|
|
Now
and full, and quick access to engine transmission, filters and
Shaft Packing |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Pilot Station |
|
Don't really need to
sleep 6, and it appears that the Starboard berth area could be
readily converted to a pilot Station with minimal effort.
There will be more to come on this....will need to leave the
berthing area open, for (quick) removable storage, since this
provides best access to rear of engine and shaft packing.
|
|
Photo
of original Starboard
berth area |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cabin Sole |
|
This will require some
work and an uncertain level of repair. The sole is fairly
thick with a top layer of teak & holly. There is a soft
spot just in front of the middle of the galley. Remainder
of the floor appears strong. When the engine compartment
is closed, and bilge access plate is down, there is minimal ventilation thru the bilge. Anticipate changing this by
adding one or two small teak floor grates to do this job.
In order to decide on
the best solution for the the Cabin Sole, will need to map
out/dimension the keel cavity under the floor. The front
of the bilge starts around 2 inches aft of the Mast compression
post, and fairs out to only around 17 inches at the top.
Comments Continued: After drying the floor with heat,
used a very thin epoxy (similar to Git Rot), applied with the
syringes you can buy from West Systems, which was absorbed into
the wood. The 'sawdust' was saved from the saw cut and mixed
with the last application of the epoxy to 'close the gap'.
Some minor black paint touchup was used on the holly to mask the
'surgery'.
|
|
Used
a small 'Dremel' saw attachment to put slices in the holly of
the teak/holly sole.
Floor was finished with 'The Ultimate Sole' Polyurethane
finish
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mast
Step |
|
Fall '07. Noted the mast has
started to settle slightly into the cabin top. Removed
Mast Step, routed an area out approx 2 inches around the step.
Removed the fiberglass top layer, chipped out the punky balsa
core. Morgan had used approx 2 in. square pieces of balsa for
the core, so that, when laid in with epoxy, limited the wicking
of water in the cabin top. There were only a few squares around
the mast step that need to be replaced.
|
|
Replaced with new 2in square pieces,
set with West Epoxy, and replaced the routed cabin tip. Good for
another 20 years. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Leaks |
|
Most of the leaking that
has affected the Cabin Sole came from the rub rails. Have
for the near term silicone caulked the 'cracks'. Rub rails
are in decent enough condition to warrant digging out the old
caulking/silcone and re-doing. For the tiny cracks, used a
WEST Epoxy systems syringe with black Silcone RTV. This is the
recommend sealant from Morgan for the Neoprene Rub Rails.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
'Rig
for Red' |
|
On
my last boat all the cabin lights had both white and red
lighting - red lighting throughout. I enjoy night and evening sailing....and will be
doing something here. Most likely LED based. I would
still like to retain the original Morgan lights - think they
have some character !!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
